Sheet out your clay as usual. TOTAL elimination of air bubbles will make a difference in the end.

I use white in most cases because it brightens up the millefiore colors added later...if desired.

*MAKE SURE YOU USE SOME OF YOUR SOFTEST CLAY FOR THE FIRST FEW TRIES. IF THE CLAY DOESN'T STICK TO THE ROD, YOU'RE GONNA BE ANGRY!

...in which case you would polish, even sand any possible residue or contaminants from the smooth, straight rod and...

Meet you back here!

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This is about the size to start with.

Of course, if you're planning on making larger beads, then you'll make these starting strips wider to allow for more wraps around the rod.

This is a Jamie Oliver 175mm roll-out. More on THAT will be fun.

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Run your strips through the machine at a thin setting. Thicker settings will make the clay too un-cooperative for wrapping around small rods.

Take special care not to stretch the strip. Even small stretches will make your rods inconsistently coated(different areas of the rod will have more or less diameter).

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The length of your strips depends on the length of the rods you plan on wrapping. Trim off the ends. 30 cm clay good for 34cm rod.

SEE Article:

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The rough edges from your machine, and air bubbles underneath your strip when you laid it down must be eliminated.

Slight adhesion to the work surface will help you also to make your bevel cut(next step).

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It takes practice not to cut your table surface.

You might want to try this on a sheet of glass, but the higher adhesion can cause other difficulties.

You will quickly find that this is the touchiest part of the process, so maybe practice practice practice this step before wasting your nicely laid-out strips.

My pinkie maintains even height. These are 30cm.

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After some practice, you will have nice consistent bevel cuts. Trust me, you want to get this right. The straighter your bevel, the easier it will be to wrap your rods.

Furthermore, when you go to lift your bevelled edge to put the rod underneath, be especially careful not to mar the leading edge of the clay. It is this leading edge that provides adherence to the metal.

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Using a fairly sharp lifter, slide along the work surface at such an angle that the clay remains lifted slightly.

Again, be careful that your newly cut bevelled edge lifts as cleanly and sharply off the table as possible. This makes your wrap easier in the end.

A nice, straight, smooth scrape when you lift the edge of the clay will pay off when you go to align the clay with the rod that you're going to stick it to.

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Using a slight back-spin on the rod, slip it under your lifted clay so that it lines up, just barely hidden under the bevelled edge.

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Carefully now!

This is where the 'rubber meets the road'.

If the clay is not adhering successfully to the rod, then you're going to have to start over with more softener in your clay, or maybe your bevel was too 'steep' of an angle to wrap gently around the first arc on the rod.

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Okay, you've gotten the edge of your clay sticking nicely along the rod!

Because of the missing pic next, I'll quickly say to lift the strips with pallette knife, flip the clay/rod toward you, and locate a peice of thick, clear plexiglas of slightly extra length.

Start the wrapping with fingers first unless you are positive that the clay as sticking well to the rod.

More soon. Sorry about that!

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POSSIBLE
PITFALL!!

Okay, if you see this happening you've got trouble. There is not much sense in going further!! Go back and start with softer clay.

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Okay, you've gotten the edge of your clay sticking nicely along the rod!

Because of the missing pic next, I'll quickly say to lift the strips with pallette knife, flip the clay/rod toward you, and locate a peice of thick, clear plexiglas of slightly extra length.

Start the wrapping with fingers first unless you are positive that the clay as sticking well to the rod.

More soon. Sorry about that!

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Okay, you've gotten the edge of your clay sticking nicely along the rod!

Because of the missing pic next, I'll quickly say to lift the strips with pallette knife, flip the clay/rod toward you, and locate a peice of thick, clear plexiglas of slightly extra length.

Start the wrapping with fingers first unless you are positive that the clay as sticking well to the rod.

More soon. Sorry about that!

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Okay, you've gotten the edge of your clay sticking nicely along the rod!

Because of the missing pic next, I'll quickly say to lift the strips with pallette knife, flip the clay/rod toward you, and locate a peice of thick, clear plexiglas of slightly extra length.

Start the wrapping with fingers first unless you are positive that the clay as sticking well to the rod.

More soon. Sorry about that!

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Okay, you've gotten the edge of your clay sticking nicely along the rod!

Because of the missing pic next, I'll quickly say to lift the strips with pallette knife, flip the clay/rod toward you, and locate a peice of thick, clear plexiglas of slightly extra length.

Start the wrapping with fingers first unless you are positive that the clay as sticking well to the rod.

More soon. Sorry about that!

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Now, you must undercut the leftover clay to match the first cut on the inside of the rod...see next photo...

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Roll it smooth.

You want to touch your thumbs together when you do this to avoid 'skewing' the rod and causing the clay to break its bond with the rod.

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Once smooth, add your millefiore!!

Then smooth again.

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You can do multiple designs on any one rod of course,

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You may cut whatever size of bead you like one by one, or you can ask about building or buying a multicutter.

They're a bit expensive, so I suggest you build your own!

This is a 5mm cutter that I designed, and have not changed the blades on it in almost a decade!!

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Woops! Too late for that!

 

We will build one of these soon.

This is my '3mm' Cutter.